The history of Panamanian coffee begins in the mid-1700s when the coffee beans arrived in Portobelo from the French Caribbean. In 1780, settler Pedro Antonio de Ayarza registered coffee as an official crop and attempted to plant it in Portobelo; however, these efforts failed as the port city’s altitude proved to be too low. It would be another 100 years, when coffee was planted in the highlands around the Volcano “Baru,” before commercial cultivation of Panama coffee was successful. At the time, nearly all coffee grown in Panama was used for internal consumption and the country was better known for exporting tea. Panamanians drank more coffee than they grew and had to import coffee to meet demand until the 1940’s. Exports grew slowly over the years; however, 50% of Panama’s coffee is still consumed domestically.
In the shadows of the Volcano Baru and Horqueta Mountain, in the Boquete highlands of Panama, coffee has been growing on Finca La Gloria for nearly 120 years. Boquete is a small mountain town and is located in the westernmost Province of Chiriquí (“Valley of the Moon”), which is about 37 miles from the border with Costa Rica, and lies on the Caldera River. Coffee plant varieties Typica, Caturra, and a small amount of Geisha grow under tall native shade trees and the watchful eye of farmer Norberto Suarez. The farm is part of a diverse ecosystem that includes a wide variety of flora and wildlife, including white-neck monkeys, venison, rabbits and many native birds. Four natural springs either originate or run across the estate, which help make the soil rich and well balanced. At the end of each harvest day cherries are delivered to Beneficios de Café de Boquete for processing. Norberto manages the mill, which he owns along with his siblings who are also coffee farmers.
La Gloria Estate is one of several "Baru Indian High" estates in Boquete's Horqueta subregion. These estates benefit from altitudes reaching 2000 meters at their peak, nutrient-rich volcanic soils, mild average temperatures, and ideal annual rainfall. La Gloria has access to natural spring water that flows through the area, useful at the farm and around the estate, and also a direct water source for local farmers.
Panama might not be the largest coffee exporter in the world, but it’s home to the most expensive, highest quality single-origin coffee that entices every coffee connoisseur – the Geisha varietal. Over the past few decades, Panama transformed its mindset surrounding its coffee industry, deciding to pursue quality over quantity. If you buy Panamanian coffee, you can tell their heart is in their coffee beans!